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Here are some of the products I use. I’ll post here the various equipment/ components that I use and/ or recommend.


How To


Tubeless Sealant

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Muc Off No Puncture Hassle Tubeless Sealant

Man o man is this stuff good. I’ve used several sealants over the years, but this is my go to now.

This sealant is thick and can seal holes up to 6mm. It also seals porous tires and bead/rim gaps. It has a UV dye in it so you can see where the hole in your tire is easily.

Stan’s NoTubes Tire Sealant

Stan’s sealant is used by a lot of people and I can say that I haven’t really seen any issues with this.

Stan’s is thinner sealant than the Muc Off or Slime sealant. While it says it can seal holes up to 6.5mm I’m not betting on that. Test have shown it is more like 3mm, which seems consistent with the thickness of the product.


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Shimano Mineral Oil

Can’t go wrong with this stuff. Used on almost all mineral oil brakes.

DOT Brake Fluid

Hydraulic brake either use mineral oil (like denoted above) or use DOT 4 or 5.1 oils.

DOT brake fluid is a dime a dozen out there. This is just one that I have used previously.

RockShox 10wt Suspension Oil

A must have for pretty much all fork services, as this is what goes in the lowers for most forks.

RockShox 3wt Suspension Oil

Another oil that is used quite often on forks and rear suspension. The Charger damper uses this as well (along with the correct port).

RockShox 15wt Suspension Oil

15 weight oil for suspension forks and rear shocks. Refer to the RockShox Technical Manuals for proper applications

RockShox 0W-30wt Suspension Oil

0W-30 weight oil is for use in Rock Shox Pike forks. With a multi-grade rating, the 0W-30 will maintain consistent performance in your Pike from the bottom of the hill to the top, and back down again.

Lubes/ Greases

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Pro Gold Chain Lube

I’ve been using this on my bikes for over 20 years. It is a great product. I use this on all chains that get a deep clean.

Thing to keep in mind when it comes to chain lubes is what type of environment you ride in.

Wet lubes are for riding when it is wet outside, as it won’t wash off easily. However, it will attract dirt and grime.

Dry lubes are for riding when it is dry outside. They don’t attract dirt, but will wash off pretty easily in the rain. So you will have to reapply often.

Finish Line Dry Lube Aerosol

If you are looking for a good dry lube, then this Finish Line spray works well. It is easy to apply and dries quickly

Park Tool PolyLube 1000 Bicycle Grease

This is one of the most used greases out there. Great for bearings and other moving parts.

Park Tool HPG-1 High Performance Grease

This is some great stuff. Perfect for high end applications including precision ground and ceramic bearings, pivots and suspension components.

Park Tool ASC-1 Anti-Seize Compound

If you don’t want the threads to seize up, then this is the right stuff to use. It will help protect parts from corrosion and rust under extreme conditions.


Man o man is this stuff slick.

Great stuff to have a round to put on o-rings and seals. Is a go to grease for suspension systems.

It will also prevent corrosion and oxidation while providing a protective layer.

Cleaning Products

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So many folks get this wrong, but WD-40 IS NOT a lube. It might seem like it at first, but when it dries it has zero lubricating properties.

It has its uses on a bike, but they are limited. What it is useful for is when trying to break up old grease (like what happens when you let your bike sit too long and the shifters stick or won’t engage when you try to shift).

Another way I use WD-40 is on rusted parts. Not really to loosen them (a deep penetrating oil is better for this), but for removing that last bit of rust coloring (like when a rusted chain leaves marks on your cassette) as it has rust prevention properties.

Greased Lighting Degreaser

There are many different types of degreasers out there. I have only tried a few, but I keep going back to this one as works as I expect it to.

Some degreasers are harsher than others, so be careful when selecting a degreaser.


Kerosene is great for soaking parts in to prior to scrubbing them to remove old grease, oil and grime. It also has rust prevention properties as well.

It should be used in a well ventilated area and stored properly.


Chains come in different sizes to match the number of gears your rear cassette has. Here is a listing:

1 gears = Single speed chain

5-8 gears = 8 speed chain (or really any of the speeds below this)

9 gears = 9 speed chain

10 gears = 10 speed chain

11 gears = 11 speed chain

12 gears = 12 speed chain

13 gears = come on man, enough is enough

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SRAM XX1 Eagle Chain

SRAM XX1 is the top of the line. Is a lot to spend on a chain, so check out SRAMs other chains to find one to suit your taste.

Note: SRAM quick links are shaped different than most quick links and therefore need to be put on the chain in a certain orientation. They have an arrow on them to show direction of chain travel. If you get it wrong you will feel a skip when the quick link goes over your cassette (especially in the 10-12 tooth cogs).

Shimano Deore Chain

Just like SRAM, Shimano have many different levels of chains. Deore is in the middle somewhere.

Note: Shimano chains are directional. The logos face outward from the bike center.

KMC 5/6/7/8 Speed Bike Chain

KMC has made a name for themselves in the chain business. Slightly higher quality and priced product than the one below.

KMC Single Speed Bike Chain

This chain is good for single speed bikes, such as a BMX bike or a single speed road/ mtb bike.

CAMPER MATTERS 6/7/8 Speed Bike Chain

I get that these aren’t name brand, but have proven to be good quality for the price.

All 6, 7 and 8 speed bikes use the same chain. So this will work if this is how many gears you have on the rear wheel.

I like to use quick links to join a chain together. It makes it easier to remove from the bike for a deep clean.

Be careful if your current quick link is too loose (can be taken apart by hand) as it could come apart when riding. Some say to use a new one each time you take the quick link off, but that can be expensive and not necessary. If it is hard to put together (using chain pliers), then it should stay in place when riding.

Make sure to use the correct size quick link for your chain size, as they are specific.

Tubes & Valves

Be careful when ordering tubes as there are several different factors to keep in mind before purchasing. The first thing is what type of valve do you have “Presta” or “Shrader”. Match this to what is already on the bike.

The next thing to know is how much dish does your rim have. In other words, how long does the valve need to be to pass through the rim with enough sticking out the other side to attach a pump. This applies equally to both Presta and Shrader valve types.

The last thing is what size tube. There are 2 considerations to determine the size. First is the diameter. This should match the first number on your tire. As an example if your tire says 26 x 1.95 on it then you’ll need a 26″ tube. The next is the width of the tube (which is the 2nd number in the example given here (1.95). Tubes will have a range of widths shown on the packaging since they inflate. A tube showing a range of 1.75 to 2.25 will work for the example tire. Note: there is a bit of wiggle room on the range, but not much.

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Standard Tube

Standard tube that has proven reliable.

Vittoria Road Tube

This is my go to tube for road bikes.

Conti Road Tube

Another great product from a fine manufacturer.

Tubeless Valve Stems

I like these tubeless valve stems because they come with 2 different types of rubber grommets to fit different types of rims. They also have aluminum caps (which is nice) and the lock nut has an O-ring to help prevent leakage.

Tubeless valves come in many different colors, so pick something that sets your rim apart.

Presta Valve Caps

Maybe you don’t want your entire valve to be a different color. Instead you can just change out the valve cap. I run these on my mtb.


Be careful when ordering tires. You need to know the rim diameter (usually 26, 27.5 or 29 for adult bikes). You also need to make sure the width you are ordering will fit in your frame/ fork. This is especially true when getting a wider tire than your current one.

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MAXXIS makes quality tubeless tires and I have seen my fair share of them on bikes that have come in to the shop.

The majority of the MAXXIS tires I see are the Minion DHF and DHR tires. DHF stands for Down Hill Front and the DHR version is for the Rear. The treads are slightly different and most times the front is a tad bit wider.


Here is the DHR version. I think you can see the difference in the tread patterns as mentioned above.

Michelin Pro4 Service Course

Back when I was riding on the road all the time I found that Michelin tires for bikes are just as good as they make for vehicles. There is just a difference that is hard to explain. They just feel like butter.

This is the Pro4, which when I was riding they only had the Pro3. Assuming they only got better over time.

Vittoria Rubino Pro IV Graphene 2.0

Another good road tire from a respectable company.